Ocean Surface Waves Their Physics and Prediction

Ocean Surface Waves  Their Physics and Prediction
Author: Stanisław R Massel
Publsiher: World Scientific
Total Pages: 508
Release: 1996-02-12
Genre: Technology & Engineering
ISBN: 9789814502283

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This book is intended as a handbook for professionals and researchers in the areas of Physical Oceanography, Ocean and Coastal Engineering and as a text for graduate students in these fields. It presents a comprehensive study on surface ocean waves induced by wind, including basic mathematical principles, physical description of the observed phenomena, practical forecasting techniques of various wave parameters and applications in ocean and coastal engineering, all from the probabilistic and spectral points of view. The book commences with a description of mechanisms of surface wave generation by wind and its modern modeling techniques. The stochastic and probabilistic terminology is introduced and the basic statistical and spectral properties of ocean waves are developed and discussed in detail. The bulk of material deals with the prediction techniques for waves in deep and coastal waters for simple and complex ocean basins and complex bathymetry. The various prediction methods, currently used in oceanography and ocean engineering, are described and the examples of practical calculations illustrate the basic text. An appendix provides a description of the modern methods of wave measurement, including the remote sensing techniques. Also the wave simulation methods and random data analysis techniques are discussed. In the book a lot of discoveries of the Russian and East European scientists, largely unknown in the Western literature due to the language barrier, are referred to. Contents:IntroductionGeneration of Waves by WindSpectral Properties of Ocean WavesStatistical Properties of Ocean WavesPrediction of Ocean Waves in Deep WaterPrediction of Ocean Waves in Shallow WaterWaves at Islands and Coral ReefsLong-Term Statistics for Ocean Surface WavesMeasurement, Simulation and Data ProcessingReferences Readership: Researchers and graduate students in physical oceanography, ocean and coastal engineering. keywords:Ocean Waves;Spectral Analysis;Statistical Analysis;Stochastic Processes;Measurement Techniques;Data Processing;Remote Sensing Techniques;Wave Modelling;Similarity Laws;Ocean Wave Spectra;Nonlinear Wave Analysis;Long-Term Statistics “The range of topics and applications is far more extensive; there is much more to tie together. The treatment is less discursive and somewhat more demanding, but always clear to a technically-trained reader … should be available to all physical and dynamical oceanographers interested in applications, and should be close at hand to graduate students and practitioners of ocean and coastal engineering.” Applied Mechanics Reviews

Ocean Surface Waves Their Physics And Prediction Third Edition

Ocean Surface Waves  Their Physics And Prediction  Third Edition
Author: Massel Stanislaw Ryszard
Publsiher: World Scientific
Total Pages: 800
Release: 2017-09-28
Genre: Science
ISBN: 9789813228399

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This book is an extended and substantially updated edition of the previous book editions published in 1996 and 2013 under the same title. The 3rd edition is a one-volume, modern and comprehensive overview of the current knowledge of regular and random ocean surface waves in deep waters and in coastal zones. Since the previous editions many new theoretical advances have been made in the physical understanding and analytical and numerical treatment of various ocean wave problems. The revisions and supplements demanded by these advances have been substantial, therefore the scope of the book has been extended by adding a new chapter and substantially supplementing others. All chapters of the book have been rewritten to include and describe in detail many new discoveries made since the completion of the previous editions. In this 3rd edition a comprehensive and updated overview of the fundamentals of the regular wave mechanics, as well as the spectral and statistical properties of random waves are given. Except for the updated chapters dedicated to tsunami and extreme waves, a new chapter dealing with other types of impulsive waves starting from rest, are also included. The air-sea interaction processes as well as the last improvements in ocean wave modelling and presently available wave prediction models (WAM, WAVEWATCH III, UMWM, NEMO) are thoroughly discussed and their applications are demonstrated. The review of the present ocean observation methods encompasses the modern sea-truthing, as well as applications of data from presently operating marine satellites. In this revised edition, chapters on the behavior of surface waves in the vegetated environments such as coral reef, mangrove forest, seaweed and seagrass areas are substantially extended and updated to include the last discoveries. The explanations in the book are self-contained and detailed enough to capture the interest of the potential readers and to prompt them to explore the research literature. The list of rapidly growing number of the recent papers on the ocean waves has been extended substantially, up to about 900 titles. Contents: IntroductionInteraction of Surface Waves and WindSpectral Properties of Ocean WavesStatistical Properties of Ocean WavesProperties of Breaking WavesPrediction of Waves in Deep WaterPrediction of Waves in Shallow WaterRogue WavesWave Motion Starting from Rest: TsunamiWave Motion Starting from Rest: Other ExamplesWaves at Coral Reefs and IslandsWaves in Vegetated CoastsWave-induced Pressure and Flow in a Porous BottomWave Observations and Long-term StatisticsWave Measurement TechniquesData Processing and Simulation Techniques Readership: Graduate students, professionals and researchers, including marine research specialist, in ocean and coastal engineering and oceanography. Keywords: Ocean Wave Physics;Wave Mathematical Principles;Spectral Analysis of Waves;Statistics of Observed Waves;Wave Numerical Modelling;Waves in Vegetated Coasts;Extreme WavesReview: Key Features: The book presents a comprehensive, broad-scope and modern one-volume study of the ocean surface wavesAll subjects are presented with the aim of demonstrating the close link between ocean physics and wave predictions, as well as ocean engineeringThe book includes recent achievements published in languages other than English, such as Russian and Polish, with very extensive list of references encompassing more than 900 titles

Ocean Surface Waves

Ocean Surface Waves
Author: Stanisław R Massel
Publsiher: World Scientific
Total Pages: 692
Release: 2013-01-30
Genre: Technology & Engineering
ISBN: 9789814460132

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The book is an extended and updated edition of the book published in 1996 under the same title (World Scientific, ISBN 9810216866). It contains a very comprehensive and extensive study on surface ocean waves induced by wind, earthquakes and possible landslides and asteroids impacts. The basic mathematical principles, physical description of the observed phenomena, practical forecasting techniques of the various wave parameters and extended application in ocean and coastal engineering, are discussed from the stochastic point of view. All chapters were completely rewritten and supplemented with many new discoveries which were published since the first edition in 1996. In particular, new chapters are added on very interesting and contemporary topics such as: wave breaking mechanisms in deep- and shallow water, freak waves, tsunami, water circulation in porous sea bottom induced by surface waves, and waves propagation through mangrove forests. In terms of numerical modeling, the state of the art of the modern methodology of wave prediction models WAM and SWAN, as well as of the high sophisticated satellite methods of waves measurement and modern methods of signal processing, including wavelets approach and Hilbert Transform approach are presented. The book is supplemented with an extended list of relevant and extended, contemporary bibliography, subject index and author index. Contents:IntroductionInteraction of Wind and Ocean WavesSpectral Properties of Ocean WavesStatistical Properties of Ocean WavesProperties of Breaking WavesPrediction of Waves in Deep WaterPrediction of Waves in Shallow WaterFreak WavesTsunamiWaves at Islands and Coral ReefsWaves in Mangrove ForestsWave-induced Pressure and Flow in a Porous BottomWave Observations and Long-Term StatisticsWave Measurement TechniquesData Processing and Simulation Techniques Readership: Graduate students, professionals and researchers, including marine research specialist, in ocean and coastal engineering and oceanography. Keywords:Surface Waves;Freak Waves;Tsunami;Deep Sea Dynamics;Coastal Water Dynamics;Coastal Engineering;Coral Reef Hydrodynamics;Flow in Mangrove Forest;Circulation in Porous Media;Stochastic Processes Fundamentals;Data Processing;Simulation TechniquesKey Features:In comparison with the first book edition, this second edition contains a substantial amount of new material on the topics contemporary discussed within the marine communityAll material is treated in an uniform way based on the modern stochastic approachMany practical examples, interesting for oceanographers and marine engineers, illustrate the theoretical and numerical results

Ocean Surface Waves

Ocean Surface Waves
Author: Stanislaw R. Massel
Publsiher: World Scientific
Total Pages: 491
Release: 1996
Genre: Science
ISBN: 9810221096

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This book is intended as a handbook for professionals and researchers in the areas of Physical Oceanography, Ocean and Coastal Engineering and as a text for graduate students in these fields. It presents a comprehensive study on surface ocean waves induced by wind, including basic mathematical principles, physical description of the observed phenomena, practical forecasting techniques of various wave parameters and applications in ocean and coastal engineering, all from the probabilistic and spectral points of view. The book commences with a description of mechanisms of surface wave generation by wind and its modern modeling techniques. The stochastic and probabilistic terminology is introduced and the basic statistical and spectral properties of ocean waves are developed and discussed in detail. The bulk of material deals with the prediction techniques for waves in deep and coastal waters for simple and complex ocean basins and complex bathymetry. The various prediction methods, currently used in oceanography and ocean engineering, are described and the examples of practical calculations illustrate the basic text. An appendix provides a description of the modern methods of wave measurement, including the remote sensing techniques. Also the wave simulation methods and random data analysis techniques are discussed. In the book a lot of discoveries of the Russian and East European scientists, largely unknown in the Western literature due to the language barrier, are referred to.

Waves in Oceanic and Coastal Waters

Waves in Oceanic and Coastal Waters
Author: Leo H. Holthuijsen
Publsiher: Cambridge University Press
Total Pages: 135
Release: 2010-02-04
Genre: Science
ISBN: 9781139462525

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Waves in Oceanic and Coastal Waters describes the observation, analysis and prediction of wind-generated waves in the open ocean, in shelf seas, and in coastal regions with islands, channels, tidal flats and inlets, estuaries, fjords and lagoons. Most of this richly illustrated book is devoted to the physical aspects of waves. After introducing observation techniques for waves, both at sea and from space, the book defines the parameters that characterise waves. Using basic statistical and physical concepts, the author discusses the prediction of waves in oceanic and coastal waters, first in terms of generalised observations, and then in terms of the more theoretical framework of the spectral energy balance. He gives the results of established theories and also the direction in which research is developing. The book ends with a description of SWAN (Simulating Waves Nearshore), the preferred computer model of the engineering community for predicting waves in coastal waters.

Theory And Applications Of Ocean Surface Waves Third Edition In 2 Volumes

Theory And Applications Of Ocean Surface Waves  Third Edition   In 2 Volumes
Author: Chiang C Mei,Michael Aharon Stiassnie,Dick K-p Yue
Publsiher: World Scientific Publishing Company
Total Pages: 1240
Release: 2018-03-15
Genre: Science
ISBN: 9789813147201

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This book set is a revised version of the 2005 edition of Theory and Applications of Ocean Surface Waves. It presents theoretical topics on ocean wave dynamics, including basic principles and applications in coastal and offshore engineering as well as coastal oceanography. Advanced analytical and numerical techniques are demonstrated. In this revised version, five chapters on recent developments in linear and nonlinear aspects have been added. The first is on detailed analyses in Wave/Structure Interactions. The second is a new section on Waves through a Marine Forest, a topic motivated by its possible relevance to tsunami reduction. The third is on Long Waves in Shallow Water and the fourth is an update on Broad-Banded Nonlinear Surface Waves in the Open Sea to include new findings in this topic. The fifth is an expanded chapter on Numerical Simulation of Nonlinear Wave Dynamics to include predictions of nonlinear spectral evolution and rogue wave occurrence and dynamics using large-scale phase-resolved simulations. This revised version also includes recent developments in precorrected-FFT accelerated O(N log N) low- and high-order boundary element methods for the computation of fully nonlinear wave-wave and wave-body interactions.Theory and Applications of Ocean Surface Waves (2016) will be invaluable for graduate students and researchers in coastal and ocean engineering, geophysical fluid dynamicists interested in water waves, and theoretical scientists and applied mathematicians wishing to develop new techniques for challenging problems or to apply techniques existing elsewhere.

Advances in Geophysics

Advances in Geophysics
Author: Anonim
Publsiher: Academic Press
Total Pages: 192
Release: 2009-11-19
Genre: Science
ISBN: 0080957005

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The critically acclaimed serialized review journal for over 50 years, Advances in Geophysics is a highly respected publication in the field of geophysics. Since 1952, each volume has been eagerly awaited, frequently consulted, and praised by researchers and reviewers alike. Now in its 51st volume, it contains much material still relevant today--truly an essential publication for researchers in all fields of geophysics.

Theory and Applications of Ocean Surface Waves Linear aspects

Theory and Applications of Ocean Surface Waves  Linear aspects
Author: Chiang C. Mei,Michael Stiassnie,Dick K.-P. Yue
Publsiher: World Scientific
Total Pages: 1071
Release: 2005
Genre: Coastal engineering
ISBN: 9789812561565

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Theory and Applications of Ocean Surface Waves Nonlinear aspects

Theory and Applications of Ocean Surface Waves  Nonlinear aspects
Author: Chiang C. Mei,Michael Stiassnie,Dick K.-P. Yue
Publsiher: World Scientific
Total Pages: 1071
Release: 2005
Genre: Coastal engineering
ISBN: 9789812561589

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This book is an expanded version of The Applied Dynamics of Ocean Surface Waves. It presents theoretical topics on ocean wave dynamics, including basic principles and applications in coastal and offshore engineering as well as coastal oceanography. Advanced analytical and numerical techniques are applied, such as singular perturbations. In this expanded edition, two chapters on recent developments have been added: one is on multiple scattering by periodic or random bathymetry, and the other is on Zakharov's theory of broad spectrum wave fields. New sections include topics on infragravity waves, upstream solitons, Venice storm gates, etc. In addition, there are many new exercises. Theory and Applications of Ocean Surface Waves will be invaluable for graduate students and researchers in coastal and ocean engineering, geophysical fluid dynamicists interested in water waves, and theoretical scientists and applied mathematicians wishing to develop new techniques for challenging problems or to apply techniques existing elsewhere.

Extreme Ocean Waves

Extreme Ocean Waves
Author: Efim Pelinovsky,Christian Kharif
Publsiher: Springer
Total Pages: 236
Release: 2015-09-02
Genre: Science
ISBN: 9783319215754

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This revised and updated second edition details the vast progress that has been achieved in the understanding of the physical mechanisms of rogue wave phenomenon in recent years. The selected articles address such issues as the formation of rogue waves due to modulational instability of nonlinear wave field, physical and statistical properties of extreme ocean wave generation in deep water as well as in shallow water, various models of nonlinear water waves, special analysis of nonlinear resonances between water waves and the relation between in situ observations, experimental data and rogue wave theories. In addition, recent results on tsunami waves due to subaerial landslides are presented. This book is written for specialists in the fields of fluid mechanics, applied mathematics, nonlinear physics, physical oceanography and geophysics, and for students learning these subjects.

Macro engineering Seawater in Unique Environments

Macro engineering Seawater in Unique Environments
Author: Viorel Badescu,Richard Cathcart
Publsiher: Springer Science & Business Media
Total Pages: 790
Release: 2011-02-09
Genre: Science
ISBN: 9783642147791

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The subjects refer to histories of ancient and modern use of seacoasts; possible macro-projects capable of massive changes in the coastlines of the Dead Sea, Red Sea and Persian Gulf caused by canal and massively scaled hydropower dam installations; relevant macro-projects for the Black Sea and Baltic Sea; possibilities of refreshment of the Aral Sea and Iran’s Lake Uremia with seawater or river freshwater importation macro-projects; potential rehabilitation of some vital arid zone regions now dominated by moving or movable surface granular materials using unique and unusual macro-projects; seawater flooding of land regions situated below present-day global sea-level; harnessing energy and obtaining freshwater from the world’s salt-laden ocean by modern industrial means; various macro-projects designed specifically for the protection (reduction of vulnerability) of particular Earth geographical regions.

Rogue Waves in the Ocean

Rogue Waves in the Ocean
Author: Christian Kharif,Efim Pelinovsky,Alexey Slunyaev
Publsiher: Springer Science & Business Media
Total Pages: 216
Release: 2008-12-11
Genre: Science
ISBN: 9783540884194

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“It came from nowhere, snapping giant ships in two. No one believed the survivors . . . until now” —New Scientist magazine cover, June 30, 2001 Rogue waves are the focus of this book. They are among the waves naturally - served by people on the sea surface that represent an inseparable feature of the Ocean. Rogue waves appear from nowhere, cause danger, and disappear at once. They may occur on the surface of a relatively calm sea and not reach very high amplitudes, but still be fatal for ships and crew due to their unexpectedness and abnormal features. Seamen are known to be unsurpassed authors of exciting and horrifying stories about the sea and sea waves. This could explain why, despite the increasing number of documented cases, that sailors’ observations of “walls of - ter” have been considered ctitious for a while. These stories are now addressed again due to the amount of doubtless evidence of the existence of the phenomenon, but still without suf cient information to - able interested researchers and engineers to completely understand it. The billows appear suddenly, exceeding the surrounding waves by two times their size and more, and obtaining many names: abnormal, exceptional, extreme, giant, huge, s- den, episodic, freak, monster, rogue, vicious, killer, mad- or rabid-dog waves, cape rollers, holes in the sea, walls of water, three sisters, etc.

Ships and Offshore Structures XIX

Ships and Offshore Structures XIX
Author: Carlos Guedes Soares,Y. Garbatov
Publsiher: CRC Press
Total Pages: 976
Release: 2015-09-03
Genre: Technology & Engineering
ISBN: 9781315647197

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This three-volume work presents the proceedings from the 19th International Ship and Offshore Structures Congress held in Cascais, Portugal on 7th to 10th September 2015. The International Ship and Offshore Structures Congress (ISSC) is a forum for the exchange of information by experts undertaking and applying marine structural research.The aim of

Waves and Wave Forces on Coastal and Ocean Structures

Waves and Wave Forces on Coastal and Ocean Structures
Author: Robert T Hudspeth
Publsiher: World Scientific
Total Pages: 952
Release: 2006-04-26
Genre: Technology & Engineering
ISBN: 9789814483988

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This book focuses on: (1) the physics of the fundamental dynamics of fluids and of semi-immersed Lagrangian solid bodies that are responding to wave-induced loads; (2) the scaling of dimensional equations and boundary value problems in order to determine a small dimensionless parameter ε that may be applied to linearize the equations and the boundary value problems so as to obtain a linear system; (3) the replacement of differential and integral calculus with algebraic equations that require only algebraic substitutions instead of differentiations and integrations; and (4) the importance of comparing numerical and analytical computations with data from laboratories and/or nature. Contents:Mathematical PreliminariesFundamentals of Fluid MechanicsLong-Crested, Linear Wave Theory (LWT)Wavemaker TheoriesNonlinear Wave TheoriesDeterministic Dynamics of Small Solid BodiesDeterministic Dynamics of Large Solid BodiesReal Ocean Waves Readership: Graduate students and practitioners in ocean and coastal engineering. Keywords:Deterministic and Nondeterministic Wave-Structure Interactions;Linear and Nonlinear Wavemaker Theories;Linear and Nonlinear Wave Theories;Fundamental Fluid Mechanics;Chaotic Analysis of Cross-Waves

Handbook of Ocean Wave Energy

Handbook of Ocean Wave Energy
Author: Arthur Pecher,Jens Peter Kofoed
Publsiher: Springer
Total Pages: 287
Release: 2016-12-07
Genre: Technology & Engineering
ISBN: 9783319398891

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This book is open access under a CC BY-NC 2.5 license. This book offers a concise, practice-oriented reference-guide to the field of ocean wave energy. The ten chapters highlight the key rules of thumb, address all the main technical engineering aspects and describe in detail all the key aspects to be considered in the techno-economic assessment of wave energy converters. Written in an easy-to-understand style, the book answers questions relevant to readers of different backgrounds, from developers, private and public investors, to students and researchers. It is thereby a valuable resource for both newcomers and experienced practitioners in the wave energy sector.